Cauliflower's Day in the Sun (or Surf)

(Is that a fractal I see?)

Cauliflower, I think, was for a long time an underrated vegetable.  It's to be expected, I suppose, when your entire existence pretty much revolves around being placed on a raw credite platter to balance out all those other colors.  I'm fairly confident that the only time I saw cauliflower in my house growing up was when it was slowly oxidizing on a vegetable plate with a bowl of Ranch dressing.

In the last few years, however, it seems like cauliflower is experiencing a sort of Renaissance. Elevated from its raw and odiferous existence by a good roast or a hot sear in a pan, cauliflower becomes tender and sweetly nuanced.  "Rediscovery" might be a strong word, but it definitely seems to be experiencing an increase in popularity: Michael Ruhlman is roasting whole heads of it and basting it with brown butter, it's showing up in "steak" form as a vegetarian main dish, back in 2010, Michael Symon engaged in a cauliflower battle with John Fraser on Iron Chef, and a few weeks ago, this recipe was featured in Bon Appetit: Poor Man's Shrimp Cocktail.

The Poor Man's Shrimp Cocktail caught my eye for a number of reasons: the major seasoning ingredient is Old Bay Seasoning (and that stuff is delicious) and this seemed like a rather cost effective way to get the peel-and-eat shrimp vibe, without the peel-and-eat shrimp prices.  Additionally, I have family members that are vegetarians and/or allergic to shellfish, and this seemed like a good way to let them partake.

After being blanched in the Old Bay brine, the chopped cauliflower florets cooled to a texture and temperature that was eerily reminiscent of actual shrimp, and dipped in cocktail sauce, the resemblance was startling.  Once again, the lowly cauliflower proves itself to have another trick up it's sleeve. 

Poor Man's Shrimp Cocktail (I prefer calling it Faux Shrimp Cocktail)

1 cup dry crab boil seasoning (such as Zatarain's or Old Bay)

1/4 cup kosher salt

2 yellow onions, quartered

6 garlic cloves

3 lemons, halved crosswise

2 1-pound heads of cauliflower, cored, trimmed into 2" florets

Cocktail sauce

1 lemon, sliced in wedges

Combine crab boil, salt, onions, garlic, and 6 quarts water in a large pot. Squeeze juice from lemons into pot and add lemon halves. Set pot over high heat and bring liquid to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes to let flavors meld. Using a slotted spoon, remove onions, garlic, and lemons from broth; discard. Return liquid to a rolling boil.

Add cauliflower; turn off heat, cover pot tightly, and let stand until cauliflower is crisp-tender, 5–10 minutes. Drain; spread out cauliflower on a rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely. DO AHEAD: Cauliflower can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

Arrange room-temperature or chilled cauliflower on a platter with cocktail sauce for dipping. Finish with a squeeze of lemon if so desired.