Nest Eggs, Two Ways

Skillet-Baked Eggs w/Spinach, from Bon Appetit (This is their pic, not mine...my camera is on the fritz.)

For Christmas this year, my food-obsessed brother-in-law (and partner-in-crime) gave me a copy of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest book, Home Cooking with Jean-Georges: My Favorite Simple Recipes. It's a collection of what are, in all reality, pretty simple recipes that highlight fresh ingredients and can be accomplished with a minimum of time and effort.  The photos are beautifully shot, and the recipes, while occasionally so basic they're obvious (I'm not sure heirloom tomato crostini warrants an actual recipe..), for the most part give creative little twists on elementary concepts. You definitely can't fault Mr. Vongerichten for his overall concept, though--the presentation of simple, satisfying meals for his friends and family that require few fancy ingredients and no complicated techniques.

Take, for example, the dish that apparently prompted my bro-in-law to buy the book for me in the first place: Fried Eggs with Crisp Croutons, Bacon, and Asparagus. It's essentially a skillet of toasted bread cubes, asparagus, and bacon (we subbed in mushrooms for the vegetarians) with eggs cracked on top. What takes the dish to the next level of deliciousness, however, is the addition of chopped dill and finely diced hot peppers.  When we put this together for Christmas day brunch,  the reviews were rave--the crispy croutons were a wonderful foil for the softer asparagus, mushrooms, and runny-yolked eggs. The dill added a nice herbal element, and the hot peppers brightened the whole thing up with a decidedly potent kick. (The second time I made the dish, I used the thick-cut bacon from the North Market's Bluescreek Farms...mindblowing. What would happen if we used thick-cut bacon in every dish that called for regular bacon? World peace? We should find out.)


In keeping with the theme (and now obsessed with the eggs-in-a-skillet concept) I made brunch a couple weeks later with some friends, the main dish being based on this recipe from January's Bon Appetit.  It's essentially the same idea as Jean-George's, but with spinach instead of asparagus (I also included bread cubes). I also upped the amount of leeks and scallions considerably (reflected in the second recipe below). Oh, and I added some chanterelle mushrooms--just to be fancy. The thing that really, really makes this particular version is the garlic yogurt and the chili butter, and I think that those two condiments could be applied to a lot of dishes to really amp up the flavor.


In the introduction to his cookbook, Vongerichten highlights the joys he's found in cooking for his friends and family, and reflects on the satisfaction that he finds in the kitchen, surrounded by his loved ones. His goal is "to spend as much time as possible with my family while cooking and eating good food." It doesn't get any better than that, does it?


Fried Eggs with Crisp Croutons, Bacon, and Asparagus 
(serves 2, can be doubled or tripled)

INGREDIENTS
4 slices of bacon
1 slice day-old sourdough bread, cubed (we used a country french)
2 large asparagus spears, trimmed and sliced on the bias
Kosher salt
1 green onion, sliced on the bias
4 eggs
1 tablespoon sliced, fresh, long red chili
1 tablespoon chopped, fresh dill

PREPARATION

Cook the bacon in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until pieces are golden and fat is rendered. Add the bread and asparagus and season with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon and bread are evenly browned and crisp, about 7 minutes. Stir in the onion and cook until tender and fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Break the eggs into the pan, letting the whites run together. When the bottom just sets, sprinkle the chili, dill, and a pinch of salt over the eggs. Cook until the whites are set and the yolks are runny, 3-4 minutes. Serve hot.

Skillet-Baked Eggs with Spinach, Leeks, and Chanterelles 
(adapted from Bon Appetit, serves 2)

INGREDIENTS

• 2/3 cup plain Greek-style yogurt
• 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
• Kosher salt
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1- 1 1/2 cups day old, cubed bread
• 2 chopped leeks (white and pale-green parts only)
• 3-4 chopped scallions (white and pale-green parts only)
• 1 cup chopped mushrooms (your choice)
• 10 cups fresh spinach (10 ounces)
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 4 large eggs
• 1/4 teaspoon kirmizi biber (Turkish chili powder--I used dried Alepo chili pepper, you can find it at Penzy's), or 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes and a pinch of paprika
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

PREPARATION

• Mix yogurt, garlic, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Set aside.
• Preheat oven to 300°. Melt 2 tablespoons butter with oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add bread cubes, cook until lightly toasted. Add leeks and scallions and mushrooms; reduce heat to low. Cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Add spinach and lemon juice; season with salt. Increase heat to medium-high; cook, turning frequently, until wilted, 4–5 minutes.
• Make 4 deep indentations in center of spinach in larger skillet or 2 indentations in each small skillet. Carefully break 1 egg into each hollow, taking care to keep yolks intact. Bake until egg whites are set, 10–15 minutes.
• Melt remaining 2 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add kirmizi biber (or other spice of your choice) and a pinch of salt and cook until butter starts to foam and browned bits form at bottom of pan, 1–2 minutes. Add oregano and cook for 30 seconds longer. Remove garlic halves from yogurt; discard. Spoon yogurt over spinach and eggs. Drizzle with spiced butter.