Lobster Rolls, Cheese, and Cocktail Dresses: 36 Hours in Rhode Island

Like a scene from the predictably cheesy Jim Carey flick "The Yes Man," sometimes you just have to say yes to an invitation...no matter how ambitious or bizarre.  If the invitation is to drive from Columbus, Ohio to Providence, Rhode Island and back in a weekend, a brief consideration of the logistics is understandable, but then I strongly suggest that you say yes, pack a bag and book a room.  

I was presented with this very invitation, with the goal of visiting the Rhode Island School of Design to see the last days of an exhibition on cocktail dresses and accouterments.  A few weeks later, I found myself in a car with a girlfriend, blasting our way Cannonball Run-style across Pennsylvania and up the coast to Providence.

Our first stop on our brief tour of Rhode Island was RISD, were we were treated to an incredibly well curated exhibition illustrating the history of cocktail culture, from its roots in the 1920s to its retro-revival popularity today.  Cocktail dresses, shoes, jewelry, hats, and barwear reflected the mood of each period of American history, from the independent, frivolous fringe of the 1920's flapper, to the somber, sensible, ration-material frocks of the war-torn 1940s. Photographs, posters, and other ephemera (including a charming collection of vintage matchbooks) accompanied the articles of clothing, helping to place everything on display into context.  Of course, we both spent some time picking our favorite gowns. Pictured to the right, one of my favorites, the "Yvette," c. 1950. (Photo courtesy of RISD.)

From there, we headed out of Providence to have lunch in Newport.  Had we been paying a little more attention, we would have realized that the Newport Folk Festival was also happening that weekend, but we, frankly, were more interested in obtaining some oysters and lobster rolls...both of which we enjoyed at The Landing, one of the numerous restaurants overlooking the boat-filled harbor.

....now THAT is a lobster roll that would make any New Englander proud. (Unless you're the type who prefers the buttered lobster instead of the mayo. And yes, you're right, those are good too.)

Combined with a couple Blue Point and Plum Point oysters, we were fortified and ready for a walk through town, enjoying the smell of the ocean and the coastal breeze.  Sadly, we were unable to convince anyone to give us a ride on their yacht.  Maybe next time.

We returned to the hotel for a brief respite, then headed back to downtown Providence for dinner at La Laiterie, a farm-to-table restaurant (and cheese shop!) started in 2006 by husband and wife chef team Matt and Kate Jennings.  Their focus is simple, flavorful dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, and deserts that Kate makes from scratch.  The cheese shop, Farmstead, offers insanely good domestic and imported cheeses, that you can purchase to take home, or enjoy on a cheese plate in the restaurant.

We were first placed in the care of cheesemonger Darren Montgomery, who guided us through a tasting of various cheeses, before helping us select several to take home. The man knows his cheese, and was incredibly patient when our response to "what kind of cheese do you like" was a resounding "EVERYTHING!" The highlights included a blue cheese made with goat's milk and a brie whose flavor and richness was worlds away from the store-brand brie you can find at your local grocery.

Two pounds of assorted cheese purchases later, we went on to the actual business of dinner, starting with plates of seared Vermont chicken livers and onion rings (below) and fried sweetbreads paired with braised radishes, anchovies, and watermelon. Both dishes were fantastic, and give a great name to offal.




Round two was a small plate daily special of barbecued octopus and pork belly with corn puree and a whole branzino, stuffed with spinach and onions, and surrounded by summer veggies and fried garlic chips.  The octopus/belly was rich and meaty, the fish was light and delicate. Unbelievably good.  It should come as no surprise, I suppose, that the belly was something out of porcine-lovers dream, as Chef Matt has won the Boston-area Cochon 555--a travelling pork cooking competition--three years running.

Since we ran our of room for desert, we took home a couple of Chef Kate's creations--a pecan pie bar and a berry crumble, and enjoyed them for breakfast the following day.  And yes, as talented as Matt is with dinner, Kate is with dessert.  Buttery, rich, and delicious, her bakery treats were the perfect starter for our long drive back back to Columbus.  What was especially satisfying was realizing that La Laiterie is just one of several restaurants (including Cook & Brown, Persimmon, and Tallulah on Thames) dedicated to bringing delicious and thoughtful dining to the people of Rhode Island.  It's enough to make me consider going back for another visit, but this time, maybe I'll fly....