The Lobster, Considered (Then Eaten)
Lobsters. Spiders of the sea. Bottom-dwelling bugs whose flesh requires an array of tools and a healthy supply of brute force to access. When you think about it, they seem an unlikely candidate as a luxury foodstuff, and, as David Foster Wallace pointed out in his 2004 essay Consider the Lobster
A girlfriend requested lobster rolls after seeing my prior post about Rhode Island: soft, top-sliced buns stuffed with a mixture of lobster meat, mayo, and green onions. Here in central Ohio, we have a surprisingly large number of lobster purveyors, including The Fish Guys at The North Market, and The Lobstah Shack in Mt. Vernon...someplace I've not had the opportunity to try, but have been informed is nothing short of an exceptional place to pick up lobsters that have been personally driven in from Maine by Shack owner Brett Fletcher.
Since a trip to Knox County wasn't in the cards for us this time around, The Fish Guys were our guys, recommending a couple pounds of shelled, cooked lobster meat for the rolls. For extra lobster fun, we picked up a live one as well, and brought him (her?) home in a Styrofoam box.
The salad itself was extremely easy to throw together: lobster, just enough mayo to hold it together, some Old Bay seasoning, and chopped green onions. Some salt and pepper to taste and then into the fridge to let the flavors meld.
We buttered the buns and toasted them on a grill, lined them with some bibb lettuce and stuffed them with the lobster and voila--we're were transported to the East Coast, listening to seagulls cry and watching the waves crash on the beach. ...Or maybe that was the sound of sirens the police helicopter on the Southside.
The second half of our lobster duo required a little more work. And a little more guts. There's not many foods out there that you kill in your kitchen, claws snapping and legs moving, dropped in a pot of steam and boiling water. It had been since college since I'd done a proper lobster boil, and ocean spider or not, there was a moment of realized mortality when I dropped him into his steam bath.
If you now find yourself craving a lobster roll, you're in luck: The Hills Market is holding their summer Lobster Days for the next several Saturdays. Call them to reserve a seating and enjoy a little bit of Maine right here in Columbus.
And if you're in the mood for cooking your own, I'm more than happy to offer my services to help you dispatch them. Just save me a claw.
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